Saturday, November 24, 2018

Fatu Hiva - The Marquesas – French Polynesia – May 2018

Fatu Hiva’s Bay of Virgins is the most photographed anchorage in The Marquesas. We arrived just before sunset, a stunning time to admire the beauty of God’s creation. This small island, southernmost in the group, was formed by two successive volcanoes, the second being inside the crater of the first. Rock spires are the remnants of viscous lava surges hardened rapidly into stone and later eroded by water and wind. Vibrant green plants grow here, evidence of plentiful rainfall which we soon experienced.  


 
Up early the next morning, we joined our new friends Henk and Lisa from Harlequin, avid hikers from British Columbia, Canada, to discover our first waterfall.  The winding trail through the jungle and the rhythmic beat of falling rain on huge overhead plant leaves was exotic. When we reached the waterfall, we all waded in wearing our clothes, as we were already drenched by rain.  

Cool and invigorated, we continued up the road which runs along the ridge formed by the inner volcanic crater. Our rest stop provided a breathtaking anchorage view surrounded by volcanic hills.

 
We decided to complete the 17 km walk to the village of Omoa. We picked up countless mangos, a nice snack along the way. We peeled the mango skins off with our teeth and bit into the fruit, which left pulpy flesh clinging between our teeth and  sticky juice running down our chins. Lisa kept a keen eye and ear out for wild lorikeets. Late in the afternoon, as we descended the switchbacks to the next village, we knew that we would not be able to walk back to our boats before dark. Just about that time, a man walked out of the bushes wearing shorts and rubber boots, and Lisa struck up a conversation with him in French. Turned out he worked on the island restoring habitat for endangered Monarch birds, and he offered us a ride back to our moorage in his boat for a reasonable fee.  After walking for over 6 hours, we were certainly glad for a fast boat ride back.

A Day in Hanaiapa, Hiva Oa -The Marquesas – French Polynesia – April 2018


This day we explored the quaint and charming village of Hanaiapa on Hiva Oa.  Our photos tell the story, as well as the date and not the real time stamped on each one. (We fixed this later.)
We start the day with classic French Polynesia fare – a baguette and brie. Bon Appetite!


 
Full sun protection

Julie's first Polynesian quilt sighting
 
Copra - dried coconut used as an ingredient in many products, is an important export crop in French Polynesia
 
Phone booth in paradise - we never saw anyone using a phone booth in French Polynesia, but every village had one.
 
Pae Pae are stone platforms from old homes

Petroglyphs are found throughout the Marquesas. This one was most likely moved from it’s original location just so that Julie could find it.

William’s Yacht Club is unique in all of French Polynesia. A destination for cruisers who find this subtle sign, the club is located on William’s front porch.  William is warm, outgoing, and welcomed us with cold water and bananas.  He loves meeting people from all over the world who visit his village. He taught himself English and speaks bits of many languages.  He has volumes of notebooks where cruisers sign in and add their boat card. We were happy to add Manna to William’s record books.
The sign near the driveway reads "Yacht Club William Hanaiapa"
 
Lisa, Laurie, Julie and William proudly displaying his English-Marquesan lexicon
William and Captain Curtis

After a long, hot day of exploring it was wonderful to relax in the cockpit and watch the moon rise over Hiva Oa.
 

Monday, November 5, 2018

inReach message from Curtis&Julie Denmark

First anchorage away from Opua! there are brown kiwi birds on this island. The sun is out, low 70's, bbq NZ lamb tonight.

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